This post is a bit different. Some of you may have already noticed that I post Monday Tips on my Facebook and Instagram. I thought it would be a good idea to gather all tips here in one place. I will be updating this post every Monday. When it will end? When I will run out of ideas 🙂
UPDATE March 6, 2018 I am sorry, but I have to stay in hospital for quite some time. I will not be able to update this post and topost anything during this time. But stay tuned! I’ll be back.
One thing needs some clarification. All I write on my Facebook/Instagram and here on my website about watercolor painting comes from my experience, from what I’ve learned, what works for me and my approach to watercolor painting. I’m not speaking on behalf of all watercolorists, but on behalf of myself. You don’t have to agree with me. Of course there are other watercolorists who paint differently, who use different methods, different techniques, different art supplies etc. What works for me doesn’t have to work for you and what works for you doesn’t have to work for me. I am only sharing with you my way of painting. I want it to be clear, because I’ve been getting some private messages lately like “you’re not right, I’m using this/I’m doing this and it works”. That’s fine! Use/do what works for you. I’m sharing my way of painting. Please, understand that. Thank you and happy painting!
Here are some tips.
1. Artist grade paints are more vibrant and pure because of the higher pigment content. Whereas student grade paints contain fillers like kaolin and have less pigment.
2. Try to use single pigmented colors to avoid mud.
One pigment = one color
Two pigments = two colors
When you mix two colors and both of them have 2 pigments, then you are actually mixing four colors, which may end up looking like mud.
3. Try to mix only 3 single pigmented colors. The more colors you mix, the muddier and duller the final color will become.
4. If possible try to use good quality paints that are either transparent and semi-transparent and try to avoid the opaque ones, which will also dull your paintings.
5. Clean your brush always in clear water whenever you change colors. Also keep two clear containers of water next to your painting. One container to rinse off your brushes, and the other container to apply clean water to your paint.
To prevent the masking fluid from clinging to the hairs of the brush always use a bar of soap. Dip your brush first into clean water and rub it gently onto a bar of soap. Soapy coat will protect the bristles. Now you can dip the brush in masking fluid and apply it on the paper. After that rinse your brush again in water. Repeat the process. Never use your best brushes for applying masking fluid. Buy a cheaper brush and keep it only for this purpose.
When the painting is finished and the paint is completely dry, I lay my painting face down and dampen it gently with a little water using either a big brush or sponge. I then put another piece of paper (usually several sheets of copy paper) on top of the back of the painting and place something heavy on top, like books for example, and leave it to dry overnight. In the morning the painting is completely dry and also flat. I’ve done that with all my paintings and it always works.
Sometimes I get questions from people leaving in hot climate – what to do to extend drying time. When the weather is hot and humidity is low it might be difficult to paint, because the paint dries very quickly on the paper.
1. One of the solutions would be to use “Blending Medium” by Winsor&Newton. This medium “Slows the drying of water colours, allowing more time for blending. Extends working time even in hot climates.”. Add a few drops to your water jar and if you don’t see the different add more until you notice the difference in the drying time.
2. Another way, if you don’t have access to the blending medium, is to add a few drops of honey to your painting water.
3. Glycerine is a humectant just like honey. You can use glycerine in the same way as honey.
4. You can also extend the paint and water drying time by adding several drops of ox gall to your painting water. Ox gall primarily enhances the paint mixing and blending capabilities to achieve beautiful smooth washes, but it also helps to keep the paint wet a bit longer.
5. Alternatively, you can adjust your way of painting to the conditions. You can make use of the fact that the layers dry quickly to paint in glazes. But I can imagine it would be hard to do with every painting and it can be frustrating, so treat it just as fun exercise.
I’ve been asked about this many times. There could be several reasons why the masking fluid ripped the paper. Here are some of my observations and suggestions that you may consider to help you perfect this technique.
1. Rule number one is that the paper has to be bone dry before applying masking fluid.
2. Masking fluid ideally needs to be removed as soon as the painted section surrounding the masked area has dried completely. In my own experience, I have kept the masking fluid on the paper for two days only. If you leave it on for longer you run the risk of damaging the paper.
3. Masking fluid, unfortunately does not have a very long life span. If the masking fluid is too old, it looses its ability to be peel off easily.
4. If you add too much water to your masking fluid (yes, you can dilute it a bit), it may cause the fluid to soak too deeply into your paper and when you try to remove the masking, it may rip the paper.
5. Some watercolor papers are too soft and can’t tolerate the strong adhesive masking fluid, which also causes the paper to rip when you remove the masking.
6. Please always test your brand of masking fluid on a small scrap of paper before you apply it to the bigger sheet of watercolor paper. Some brands of masking fluid work well on some watercolor papers but can be disasterous on other brands.
When you are painting you always have to blot your brush on a paper towel/tissue/cotton cloth (I prefer paper towels). It’s good to put it into some kind of container, so when the paper towel is wet, you can easily replace it with a new one. Additionally, because paper towel is in the container, it will protect your working area from mess. I used to place my paper towel on my desk and after a while my desk was wet. Placing the paper towel in a bowl is such an easy way to keep everything clean.
Cleaning your palette is not essential but it can help you to keep your colors clean and vibrant when you paint. It is not essential, because we know many artists who don’t clean their palettes (take a look at fully loaded palette of Yuko Nagayama), but for the beginners especially it is highly advisable. I sometimes get questions “Why my colors are not clean on my paintings?”. One of the reasons is a dirty palette. Try to mix colors in a mixing area. Don’t dip your brush in the well/pan with blue and then in the well/pan with yellow. Take blue paint and put it on the mixing area, clean your brush and then take yellow and mix these colors in the mixing area, not within the wells. After a while when you don’t have space on your mixing area to mix a new color, clean it. Don’t try to fit one more puddle of paint because the colors will mingle and you will get a dirty color. Try to clean your palette after or before every painting session. It takes one minute, but it will really help you. Just take a piece of paper towel, water and clean the surface. If you see that colors on the wells/pans are not clean – clean them as well. This might be very obvious or silly you may think, but sometimes it’s really good to clean up the mess.
I’ve learned that it’s much better to build a color and form with several layers than trying to do this with a single layer. In most cases it’s just impossible. When you build up the color and form with thin, transparent layers you have more control over it. With each layer you can adjust the color, the tone and the size of the area where you are applying the paint. This way you can build the color and form that will look more realistic. The key here is to understand how colors react with each other, what result you will get if you apply one color on top of another. It comes with practice. When you try to build form with only one color and one layer – you will never get realistic results. Even if you see that a leaf is all green, there is a 99% chance that you should use some red, or blue, or at least another green to make shadows and build form.
I try to use transparent or semi-transparent paints. I have only Naples Yellow Deep PBr24 which is opaque (and it’s just an additional color) + white gouache. Opaque pigments are ones you can’t see through, e.g. all cadmium colors are opaque. All opaque paints, however, can be transparent if you add enough water. Nevertheless, it’s better to avoid them because they tend to get muddy quickly and because of their properties they can cover other paint, which is not what we’re looking for in watercolor painting. Beautiful transparent watercolor glazes is something that makes watercolor painting so special. Of course sometimes opaques can be useful, but use them with caution. How do we know the paint is opaque? We can just check the symbol of opacity that each color has. Opaque paints are the ones with the symbol of black square or they have letter O which stands for opaque.